Those Iconic Red-Soled Shoes

Early Life in Paris

He was only 12 years old when, at home in Paris, where he lived with his mother and three sisters, Christian Louboutin started designing women’s shoes, as he was intrigued by the female universe and by the power of a pair of stilettos. But the real life-changing moment was when he started working as an intern at Folies Bergères: observing the legs of the dancers, he realized that shoes can change the way a woman walks and moves. So he called Hélène de Mortemart, Christian Dior’s Fashion Director, to show her his sketches, and she helped him find an internship. «The smell of glue was enough to make me understand that this was my greatest passion» he loves to say. Then he worked few months with celebrated designer Roger Vivier, where he learned how to create a magical symbiosis between design and craftsmanship. He was now ready to step onto the big stage.

“Observing the legs of the dancers, he realized that shoes can change the way a woman walks”.
Christian Louboutin

Global Success

When Christian Louboutin opened his first boutique, he was less than 30 years old, and it quickly became a reference, thanks to Caroline de Monaco who was one of his early clients. But there was still something missing. He found it by chance: while he was working on a new collection inspired by Pop Art, he noticed the red lacquer color on his assistant’s nails. The rest is history: he asked her to lend him her nail polish and used it to paint the entire sole. His first “signature” mark was born. That extra edge that turns his shoes into a highly recognizable object of desire, into the symbol of a strong and independent woman who, walking in her stilettos, leaves her indelible red mark on the streets. Today, Louboutin shoes are cult objects exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.  His most celebrated creations include the Kate and So Kate stilettos designed in honor of his dear friend Kate Moss, and the made-to-measure pieces designed for Taylor Swift’s “The Eras Tour” and for Beyoncé’s album “Renaissance”.

Christian Louboutin

One Style, Many Plans.

Over his long career, Christian Louboutin has never lost his curiosity and joie de vivre, travelling all over the world and working with artisans from countries such as Bhutan, Senegal and Mexico, as well as with artists, singers and, above all, celebrated designers. He designed shoes for the shows of some of the biggest names in fashion, like Jean Paul Gautier, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, combining his unparalleled artisanal skills with a clear aesthetic vision. That’s the key to his success, the reason why “Louboutin shoes” are seen strutting down red carpets worldwide, worn by international celebrities.  Not only women, however, as, since 2009, there is also a men’s line and, lately, a kid’s one. These new projects speak the same language, adding on to the leather goods and accessories collections and the recently launched beauty line that, needless to say, also includes a nail polish. Obviously red.

Taylor Swift

Global Compact: Towards Sustainability

An International Network

It has been signed by 20,000 companies and 2,500 non-commercial signatories from over 167 countries around the world, including 500 in Italy. And among the companies, from today, there is also Marcolin. We are referring to the “United Nations Global Compact”, the largest corporate citizenship initiative, started in 2000 with a proposal by former United Nations Secretary Kofi Annan during the work of the World Economic Forum in Davos in 1999. The objective? Combat the critical aspects of globalization, from child labor to gender discrimination to air, water and land pollution. And promote a sustainable global economy, respectful of human and labor rights, environmental protection and the fight against corruption. For the first time in history, the commitment to align the objectives of the international community with those of the business world was established.

Global Goals for Sustainable Development

The Role of Marcolin

For the Longarone-based Group, this is a further step on the path towards concrete and tangible sustainability, based on a business process strategy that relies on three pillars: environment, people and supply chain. By adhering to the Global Compact, Marcolin is committed to sharing, supporting and applying the ten principles considered fundamental within its sphere of influence. These principles are those universally shared and derived from the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, the ILO Declaration (labor), the Rio Declaration (environment and development) and the United Nations Convention Against Corruption.

A stage of frame control.

An Increasingly Shared Vision

Almost 25 years after the establishment of the Global Compact (at the first summit attended by only 500 representatives of national governments, trade unions and UN agencies) it has become even more evident that this is the right direction. Because it is only by joining forces that every company can truly impact and contribute to building a more sustainable tomorrow, from all points of view, for present and future generations. And because achieving the Sustainable Development Goals set by the United Nations is in everyone’s interest.

Global Compact Manifesto

Clara Magnanini

1

What’s Marcolin’s sustainability vision?

«For Marcolin sustainability means, first of all, responsibility: we are a company, but also a social actor that is deeply rooted in our area, although we operate globally. So, our actions have an impact and we feel it is our duty to make this impact positive and virtuous. At Marcolin we see our commitment like a sort of dynamic line that runs along and connects the three pillars of our strategy: the first pillar is the environment, that encompasses our products, as well as our manufacturing facilities; the second is represented by people in a broader sense; and the third pillar is the supply chain with a view to collective responsibility».

 

One of the stages of manufacturing glasses
2

How did you translate these ideas into action?

«Over the past few years, we’ve started introducing innovative materials for some collections and brands, such as, for example bio-based acetate, while – in terms of our manufacturing facilities – we’ve implemented energy efficiency and waste reduction projects. Talking about the social pillar, then, we just received the certification for Gender Equality, thanks to a very long process encompassing, over the years, the introduction of a number of corporate welfare and parenting support tools, while constantly focusing on training. Lastly, in terms of the supply chain, we introduced a code of ethics and a code of conduct requiring our suppliers to adopt respectful behavior towards the environment and human rights, and we constantly monitor their compliance».

Clara Magnanini
3

What are the challenges ahead?

«There are many challenges ahead, not only for Marcolin. First of all, we need to keep up with the current regulatory acceleration, which requires new skills, new professional roles and investments. But sustainability investments cost and give results only in the medium-to-long term: so not all the companies can afford to make them. But the biggest challenge is the cultural one, because sustainability is an intangible topic. This concept is well-demonstrated by a quote by explorer and environmental activist Robert Swan, who said: “The greatest threat to our planet is the belief that someone else will save it”.  Because sustainability is a lot less tangible than a pandemic, a war or inflation, but this intangibility risks generating indifference. At Marcolin, instead, we want to do our share, in the belief that the planet is everybody’s home, a place that belongs to everybody, and that therefore needs to be preserved for the generations of today but, even more so, for those of tomorrow».

Clara Magnanini

Mercedes-Benz | ic! berlin Collection ’24

The World of Puristic Elegance

The new models of the Mercedes-Benz Collection represent the pinnacle of craftsmanship – an exclusive blend of the sensual design language of Mercedes-Benz and the eyewear brand innovative, screwless premium design. Each model testifies to ic! berlin shared commitment to the highest quality and aesthetic perfection. A must-have for anyone who is drawn to the puristic yet elegant design of ic! berlin as well as the timeless aesthetics of Mercedes-Benz, and ideal for those who want to make a statement.

The features

All four new models are inspired by the design language of Mercedes-Benz vehicles: pure lines, flowing shapes, and premium materials. The color palette is subtle and elegant, with accents from the iconic vehicle colours of Mercedes-Benz. Warm hues like bronze and cooler metallic shades such as pearl dominate the collection. The two prescription glasses are inspired by powerfully flowing contours that mirror the design of Mercedes-Benz vehicles, impressing with their lightness and wearing comfort. The sunglasses combine timeless design with a nod to the seventies, accentuated with sophisticated details.

Sunglasses: The Ultimate Summer Trend

It’s vacation time: what sunglasses to wear? Mini or maxi? Minimalist or Pop?

Transparent or colorful, rounded or squared, the shield design that was so popular in the early 2000s makes a huge comeback this year. Obviously with a revisited shape: a little less wraparound, smaller in size and enriched with new contrasting metal details. An eyewear shape that immediately recalls the world of sports, but this summer the technical and functional aspect has been decontextualized and shield sunglasses are worn everywhere: on the beach, for traveling or for visiting art cities. They’re the latest go-to accessory for a colorful evening beach party.

Pronounced shoulders, high-rise pants, geometric architectures: the latest fashion shows definitely nod to the 1980s. Does this trend also stand true for eyewear?

The Eighties are a “Golden Age” to draw from instinctively at times of economic and climatic uncertainty like the present ones. In eyewear, this trend was interpreted with a remake of the creepy, horror style that is closely associated with the music and film culture of the decade, and with the comeback of the color red in all its shades, but we’re talking about a trend for the upcoming winter season. These months, instead, on the color front we’re seeing the return of purple, lilac and iridescent tones, much loved by the younger generations who – for their eyewear and sneakers alike – choose artificial, metallic, pearled and neon hues. Another trend that borrows from the 2000s, when gold and silver were ever so popular.

And what about the 2024 summer trends for people over 40?

Adults continue to prefer more natural hues, like nude, and pay great attention to design and decorative details. But something has changed here too: style is becoming more genderless, for example oval shapes are worn by both men and women. It’s the evolution of a trend that started a few years ago, when young women started wearing their husband’s or boyfriend’s jackets, shirts and denims. Today we’ve gone from apparel to accessories, but the news is that men have also “contaminated” their looks. It’s the new trend. Like trap rappers, with their oval wraparound sunglasses verging on cat-eye that some time ago would have been considered as “women’s” frames but that today everybody loves. Without distinction.

ME Summer Buying Days

In the pearl of Thailand

A dream location, on the island of Phuket, was chosen by Marcolin to meet customers and partners from the Middle East region during the traditional Summer Buying Days 2024. Five days to strengthen relationships in a less institutional setting and learn about new collections. But also, to indulge in an immersion in the colors and scents of Thai culture in the welcoming spaces of the Pullman Resort Arcadia Naithon Beach, amid traditional dance performances and a gala dinner that allowed guests to enjoy the best dishes that local cuisine has to offer.

A consolidated link

For Marcolin, which has been present in the Middle East area since 2017 through a joint venture with Rivoli Group, a leading partner for luxury accessories, those days were an opportunity to talk about new business goals, provide information about the new portfolio and present next year’s collections. So many new lines are the result of extensive research and innovation work, the very qualities that, together with the ability to respond to customer needs with adequate services, are among the most appreciated of the Longarone-based company.

The word from customers

This is confirmed by the opinions gathered during Summer Buying Days 2024 in Phuket. They all said they appreciated the very diverse portfolio, but those who have been working with Marcolin for some time especially like to talk about seeing the professional relationship transform into friendship. Something that evidently does not happen frequently at certain levels.

APAC Summer Buying Days

An attentive and lively market

In an area of ​​the world extremely interested in eyewear and Made in Italy excellence, where a large part of exports are concentrated, Marcolin has strategically chosen to be geographically close to customers by organizing various events. Singapore, Shanghai and Sydney: three locations were chosen by Marcolin to meet customers and collaborators in the Apac area during the 2024 edition of the Summer Buying Days. An opportunity welcomed with enthusiasm to evaluate the new collections and discuss the opportunities offered by the acquisition of new brands. The second appointment was reserved for China and North Asia: in the province of Hainan, the Shenzhou Peninsula Grand Hyatt hotel welcomes 47 guests. The four-day event, representing 19 companies from China, Japan and Taiwan, was the first ever held in APAC outside of the Marcolin showroom. In Singapore and Sydney, however, Marcolin customers enjoyed a welcome in showrooms set up for the occasion with the latest in the field of visual merchandising for TOM FORD, ic! berlin, MCM and Christian Louboutin. A large, lively and rapidly growing market which, according to the latest Anfao data, saw an increase in requests for frames (+24.6%) and sunglasses (+38.1%) in 2023 compared to the previous year and which its continued double-digit growth will also be confirmed in 2024.

Marcolin’s choices

It is therefore not surprising that Marcolin, already present in more than 125 countries around the world and with four design and development teams located between Italy, the United States and Asia, over the years has created and grown a network of branches in Asia able to work synergistically to satisfy the global expectations of brands and meet the demands of young, curious and increasingly aware and demanding customers. Consolidating its presence in this territory thanks to tailor-made services and a portfolio of world-famous brands.

Customers’ feedbacks

During the Summer Buying Days, customers, between presentations and convivial moments, also had the opportunity to take stock of their experience with Marcolin. And, once again, the ability of the Longarone company to combine skills of competence, creativity and professionalism with a special attention to human relations was highlighted. With a professional response focused on the local market. What has met general favor, then, is the vision, the ability to innovate and creatively promote products of the highest quality. All aspects which, in this part of the world, strengthen customer confidence and contribute to making very positive forecasts for 2025 too.

ic! berlin Custom Fit Collection

Discovering a new dimension of eyewear design

The Custom Fit Collection 24 by ic! berlin not only offers a comfortable and effortless fit, but also celebrates the unique beauty found in every face. All details have been carefully thought out to create a harmonious connection between cultural references in the design language and contemporary aesthetics. Whether you’re sipping coffee in one of the charming cafés in Berlin-Mitte or strolling around Museum Island – everyone will find their match in one of the four new models from the Custom Fit collection. The two silk models Kayoko and Yuri are designed for the modern person who appreciates minimalism and lightness. The perfect fit and comfort for a day in Berlin are guaranteed. The two classic models Ling and Muyan are designed for purists who prefer unique, discreet glasses and see the world through their own eyes.

A Stylish Tour Of The Capital

The model Jun Lai, who lives in Hamburg and is originally from Taiwan, spent a day with ic! berlin and explored the city from his perspective. These frames interpret historical, Asian design in a modern way. As a model, Jun knows that modern minds rightly have their own individual style and aesthetics. He chose 4 models for his day in Berlin, which stand out due to their classic and stylish colour combinations. The collection features monochrome frames in Black, Pearl, and Teak, as well as versions with coloured accents on the top line: White with Rose Gold, Dove Blue with Fashion Silver, and Mauve with Graphite.

Asian Fitting

All Custom Fit models have features specially developed and designed for the Asian market. The Custom Fit collection has wider silicone nose pads, versatile adjustable nose pad arms, and a flatter inclination of the eyeglass front.

US Summer Buying Days

Under California Palm Trees

Three days under the California sun and palm trees, set against the welcoming backdrop of the Ritz-Carlton Bacara in Santa Barbara, a luxury resort offering a breathtaking view of the Pacific, a private beach, a gym and an immense spa to indulge in relaxation. This is the scenario where Marcolin greeted its US customers and partners for the yearly Summer Buying Days. The perfect opportunity to strengthen new and well-established relationships in an informal and pleasant atmosphere. But also, to introduce the hottest new entries in the company’s portfolio and the latest news for the next season.

Immersed in nature

The Buying Days were not all about meetings and presentations, but also about sports and wellness, thanks to the many options offered by the sponsors, starting from a morning yoga session, rigorously held outdoors in front of the Ocean. Some chose Timberland’s unique eco-hike to a scenic spot overlooking the Santa Barbara hills, others TOM FORD Eyewear’s catamaran charter, for a truly unforgettable experience, while the sportiest ones opted for a spin class at dawn together with adidas. Then, a relaxing aperitif by the swimming pool with Guess and, on the last day, a wine tasting event organized by Max Mara.

Customer opinions

Like every year, the Summer Buying Days were also an opportunity to find out what our partners and customers think about Marcolin’s quality and style. Many opinions were collected: most people had very positive opinions on Marcolin’s customer service, since it leads customers by the hand – from the very beginning to the end of the process – providing them with any information they may need. A value that is perceived as an integral part of the relationship with the Group. That’s why the Summer Buying Days also confirmed our attentive and respectful attitude towards our customers, who need to experience all the brands’ new products and trends firsthand but also to feel part of a relationship that’s more than just business. And that, moving into the future, will continue to encompass great skills, devotion, attention to detail and support.

Giuliana Matarrese

1

There is a lot of talk about special workmanship, unique pieces in fashion and accessories. Marcolin itself produces unique pieces for fashion shows. does it make sense today to still talk about high fashion?

«Haute couture makes sense for not one, not two, but three reasons: firstly because, of course, it’s an experimentation lab where the various brands showcase all their savoir-faire, and so they show their achievements. Secondly, because if there is a market with people who can afford to buy these clothes, obviously Fashion Houses sink their teeth into it. And thirdly because, couture has a reputational allure that enables brands to be perceived as so high-end by consumers that all the others, i.e. 99% of the world’s population who cannot afford to buy couture clothes, will, however, feel privileged all the same to buy a House’s lipstick or clutch bag. Similarly, it therefore makes sense that the eyewear category also creates a series of products that perhaps are not even meant for the market. Unique, precious products that showcase the level reached by a House with its technical skills and savoir-faire».

 

2

Which are the latest cutting-edge haute couture techniques seen in haute couture that struck you the most?

«The one that strikes the eye, the one that has become most popular lately and that really pushed the boundaries for the work team, is certainly the one by House Margiela Artisanal, developed by John Galliano. For example, he invented silicone treatments that were brushed onto garments to give them a rain-drenched look, even though they hadn’t been rained on. Then there was another one called Rétrécirage, if I’m not wrong, which is a technique for treating wool crêpe with a special glue after boiling it, which created very peculiar volumes, especially for blazers, giving them coquettish, sweetheart-like shapes, right? These are just some of the latest, let’s say, techniques introduced by haute couture that turn a garment into a precious object, into a true work of art».

“Unique, precious products that showcase the level reached by a House with its savoir-faire”
3

Why did you choose this place for the interview?

«I chose this place, 10 Corso Como, because it represents a bridge to the future. Just like fashion, or eyewear. A bridge that connects apparently different worlds that aren’t so different after all. Fashion, design; fashion, art. That’s why I thought it was the perfect place for this short interview».