One of Carlo Scarpa’s masterpieces

Straddling architecture and design

It is in the extraordinary setting of the historic Olivetti showroom in Venice, under the loggia of the Procuratie Vecchie, the space skilfully designed by Carlo Scarpa in 1957 for Adriano Olivetti which has been reopened to the public thanks to FAI, that Marcolin wanted to set the new campaign for its Web Eyewear line autumn-winter collection. This was no accidental choice, given the affinity between the elegant intelligence of the great Venetian architect – also translated into extreme attention to detail – and the sophisticated taste coupled with knowledge of materials expressed by the Marcolin brand.

 

Form and substance

The Olivetti showroom, an authentic work of art arranged over two floors, welcomes visitors with the sculpture-fountain entitled Nudo al sole [Naked in the Sun] by Alberto Viani, a gilded bronze work from 1956 (and recently restored) that Scarpa had placed in a black Belgian stone basin filled with water to reflect its upside-down image. But the real stroke of genius is the staircase that dominates the central hall, with its steps made of Aurisina marble, widely used in Venice until the Middle Ages, which seem to be suspended in the void and lend a sense of lightness and airiness to the whole room. Above, in the small areas formed by the two long galleries, a number of historic Olivetti typewriters and calculating machines, themselves examples of Italian design excellence, are on display. Like the frames from the Web Eyewear collection, Marcolin’s house brand created in 2008 and now known the world over.

Transparencies that are echoed in the acetate frames with titanium details from the new Web Eyewear season.

The light of Venice

The themes of light and water therefore dominate the space of the Olivetti showroom, the forerunner of modern flagship stores. Two elements that are known to characterise Venetian topography and art, and which are evoked here by a skilful use of natural light. And of the materials, mixed in a continuous play on colour contrasts and transparencies: from the marble and Murano glass floor (Scarpa began his career in the Murano glassworks) to the African teak and rosewood of the balconies, through to the bevelled crystal glass display cases. Transparencies that are echoed in the acetate frames with titanium details from the new Web Eyewear season. The lightness of which, enhanced for this campaign by the lens of American fashion photographer Nicolas Kern, conveys the idea of simple, contemporary elegance. Minimalist design, natural colours, textured effects and transparencies: as in Scarpa’s architecture, the beauty of these glasses lies in each individual detail. And this, perhaps, is the key to successfully combining style and comfort, sophistication and functionality. In architecture as in product design.

How is a pair of glasses created?

The Tumbling Stage

Round, irregular, butterfly or cat-eye. And then metal or acetate, black or coloured: these are the infinite ways in which frames can surround our eyes, bringing the best out in them. Not everyone knows, however, which and how many special processes go into making a pair of glasses. Lara Marogna, Group Style & Product Development at Marcolin, explains one of the most important and delicate processes: tumbling. “Its name comes from the machine that is used, the tumbler. This is the name given to the cylindrical machine, also known as the ‘barrel’, which is divided into tanks inside which, once the shaping is complete, the frame fronts and temples that will later make up the glasses are inserted, together with pieces of beech and birch wood of different sizes and balls of abrasive paste. At this point, the machine is closed and started up: the tumbler starts to turn on itself at a speed that can vary depending on the material (metal or acetate), and with each rotation, by dropping and rubbing, pieces of wood and abrasive pastes do the job of roughing, polishing and final buffing of the frames.” A long job because, for each of the three stages, the tumbler runs continuously for 12 to 14 hours.

The importance of the right mix

At each step, when the tumbler is unloaded, the workers check the frames one by one. And when it’s time to fill it back up, they must know how to perfectly dose the pieces of wood and paste that make up the polishing material mixture. And they can do this by checking by touch that it is neither too dry nor too oily; therefore, experience and knowledge of materials are required. It is precisely the right balance of these ingredients that gives an excellent result. A pair of glasses in which every detail of the frame is perfect for its function, therefore resistant but also aesthetically impeccable.” And Laura Marogna, who began her professional career in the world of jewellery, knows that it is from the care of these stages, which take place behind the scenes in a factory, that we can obtain a glamorous and elegant product, capable of making us dream and enhancing our personal style.

A Three-Stage Journey

After this period, the tumbler is opened and the frames are checked one by one (for the uninitiated, it is surprising to see how at each step, the frames are more beautiful and shinier). Next, they are put into another tumbler, where the next stage runs for another 12-14 hours. In all, the process takes four days to achieve the result of a perfectly smooth and shiny frame. Ready to be finished and leave the factory.

It is not, however, a purely mechanical process, where the tumbler does everything: what makes the difference in tumbling is the human touch, thanks to the eyes and hands of the workers who manage and follow the whole process.

 

Back to work

Sophisticated and innovative

With their thickness, exceptional touches of color and a design that nods to – and reinterprets – the Sixties and the Seventies, TOM FORD Eyewear frames demand the spotlight. Oversized, eye-catching yet elegant, these dramatic frames are perfectly matched with the personality of wearers who, in their private and work life, stay true to a classy style. Starting from their accurate selection of details, fabrics or accessories. But not only: they are also youthful, innovation-oriented, and curious about the future. A style that has its roots in luxury but that stands out for its forward-thinking vision.

 

A style that has its roots in luxury but that stands out for its forward-thinking vision

Casual and essential

The new GANT Eyewear collection expresses the unmistakable sporty spirit of a brand born in America in 1949 with frames combining a contemporary and dynamic style with precious, iconic little details. These optical styles stand out with their linear and elegant frames, such as the – ultra-lightweight yet flexible and strong – metal silhouettes. Comfortable and adjustable, they are the ideal choice for wearers who, in their everyday lives, feel perfectly at ease with a casual, essential and minimalist style. For people who want zero complications.

 

Comfortable and adjustable, they are the ideal choice for wearers who, in their everyday lives, feel perfectly at ease with a casual and minimalist style

Elegant and glamorous

Poised between Robert Redford’s style and 1980s-inspired retro futurism: teardrop optical frames unfailingly convey a timeless allure. Intellectual yet glamorous, like Zegna Eyewear accurately crafted metal frames, they are the right choice for wearers who love a refined style without sacrificing a vintage touch. A style that looks to the past and is thus reassuring and puts everybody at ease. But that is far from boring: with a few skillfully revisited details, the great classics make a glitzy comeback.

Valtteri Bottas 

1

Since the very beginning in Fomula One in 2013, to Alfa Romeo Team in 2022. What was the biggest challenge on this journey: the one with yourself, with the other racing drivers or with the Formula One cars?

For me the biggest challenge has been always adapting. Whether it’s a different team and different tracks, different cars each year, always trying to adapt and make the most out of the situation and quite often it’s a new situation. Technology has been another challenge. Things keep on changing and improving as it is a really innovating sport. So staying on top of your game on the technical knowledge side is a challenge.

2

Is there a special circuit where you feel more comfortable to win and why?

For me a special one is Japan. First of all, because of the track – it’s like a big rollercoaster, it’s so fun to drive – but among all the things is the culture, so different from the European countries. Then the fans are so well behaved and supportive to everyone. On top of that, there is Japanese food. It’s always a nice compromise to go to. 

3

How do dynamism and innovation of your profession coexist in your everyday life?

I would say that also the lifestyle is very busy. Outside the race weekends you are always travelling, always moving and, at the same time, you are trying to keep the best energy levels possible from the start of the season to the end. It is a dynamic and very innovative sport. There is always stuff coming on. There are always new things that you need to learn, new tools to help you to be better whether it’s analysing the data and the telemetry of the driving or whether it’s simulating the set ups for the following weekend. Basically, from when I started F1 to nowadays, there is so much more information and tools to help your performance as a driver but also the cars performance. You really need to make sure that you always understand the situation understanding the data. There is so much stuff that you have to prioritize on which things you focus to be able to perform the best. 

Lenses for travelling

The Göreme Valley

The Montgolfier brothers, inventors of the first balloon to transport people, could never have imagined it: the hot air balloon experience is still one of the most impressive for gliding through the sky. One of the best places to enjoy the magic of the landscape seen from above is the Göreme Valley in the unique historical region of Cappadocia. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, it is dotted with rocks of volcanic origin and religious architecture from pre-Christian times weathered by the ravages of time. The result is a surreal landscape. Impossible to distinguish myth from fairytale, not even the multifaceted forms carved into the rock, rebaptised the ‘fairy chimneys’, where the earth meets the sky, offer a solution. To enjoy the magnificence of the scenery, it is possible to take advantage of the bright morning light or the warm hues of sunset. To accompany the thrill of the flight, we refer to a legend in the world of eyewear: the aviator models once designed for pilots, still capable of surprising in the reinterpretations in the Marcolin collections. Combining a classic with contemporary design details.

To accompany the thrill of the flight we refer to the pilots models, still capable of surprising in the reinterpretations in the Marcolin collections

Trieste – Vienna round trip

Once upon a time there was the Habsburg Empire, the year was 1857. The inauguration of the line from Vienna to Trieste, the most important outlet on the Adriatic Sea, transformed the missing link into what would go down in history as the southern railway line and go on to enable the aristocracy south of the empire to land on the shores of the Adriatic, revitalising trade on both routes. Today, that railway line’s historic network has been restored, making it possible to reach Vienna from Trieste along the old route. This is slow travel. Watching the landscapes pass by, starting from the shores of Istria of yesteryear, across the rugged mountain ridge of the Simmering and then up through Styria, always window-side are the sights you will see under the lenses of your glasses. If art and culture are on your agenda this summer, once you arrive in Vienna, the highlight is the Austrian National Library, with its Gala Hall: you will not have access to the over 200,000 volumes on display, but you will be able to admire the baroque splendour of the court library, one of the most beautiful in the world. We suggest graduating the experience through understated, elegant frames, the result of the time-forged expertise of the Marcolin brand.

Bells Beach

Cherchez la femme! urged Alexandre Dumas père, in his novel Les Mohicans de Paris, to imply that women are the direct or indirect cause of events, even if these events are apparently unrelated to the women in question. With the Women’s World Cup coming into full swing this August in Australia and New Zealand, we turn to Oceania. Following the Italian national team is an opportunity to travel around the Australian continent chasing waves, heading for beaches whose miles of sand or rocks make them a surfers’ paradise. For the more experienced, equipped with the best lenses to shield their eyes from the sun’s rays and wrap-around silhouettes to protect them from the water and salt, Marcolin sets up a rendezvous at Bells Beach, the birthplace of surfing in Australia and the setting for Point Break, the cult film for lovers of the most spectacular water sport ever. For mere inquisitive onlookers, however, there is the Australian National Surfing Museum and Hall of Fame near the beach to trace the history of surfing and its most iconic boards.

Rendezvous at Bells Beach equipped with the best lenses to shield from the sun’s rays and to protect the eyes from the water and salt

Frames and Storylines

Craftsmanship as a point of view

To define the craftsmanship of a pair of glasses from a literary point of view, we could use the narrative point of view as a term of comparison since, depending on the angle from which one chooses to tell a story, this captures different cues and emotions from the subject of the storyline. A company like Marcolin is measured by the meticulousness and care of its production: the quality of the materials, the creativity of the design and the manufacturing expertise speak of a dedication to its uniqueness. This dedication mirrors the stories selected. Each book is a miniature collection of stories linked by a point of view that has the construction or discovery of strong, authentic characters at its heart: beyond the glitz and the glory, like the protagonists of the stories in Vite minuscole [Small Lives] by Pierre Michon, a classic from the 1980s, which launched a first-time author into the literary fold by virtue of the power of his language. The need to meet one’s destiny is echoed by Francesca D’Aloja’s Spiriti [Spirits], not as phantasmagorical entities but as enlightened people committed to being fully themselves. Adding historical context to a novel with a compelling narrative structure are the four different points of view that unravel through the pages of Trust by Hernan Diaz. Discovering the face of a woman who has remained in the shadows of history is their mission.

The style of a pair of glasses conveys the personality of the wearer. Defining its tone and calibrating its timbre is, likewise, the purpose of a narrative voice.

The power of the narrative voice

The style of a pair of glasses conveys the personality of the wearer. Defining its tone and calibrating its timbre is, likewise, the purpose of a narrative voice. What defines the style of a Marcolin collection with a distinct contemporary twist? That ability to dose practicality and uniqueness by refining a detail, which, like the narrative voice of the protagonist of a story, can precisely convey the coordinates of a storyline or a feeling. For this reason, our selection has given voice to poets. First and foremost, to that of Antonia Pozzi, as a sculptor of the soul, who expresses her deepest voice with the delicacy of a young bird on its first flight in her collection of love poems entitled Poesie d’amore. And if you are eager to tune in to the tones and vibrations of someone who has long sought the deep voice of the narrator’s self not only between the pages of her stories, but also travelling through Europe in search of a writer who voluntarily eclipsed herself from the world, Nome in codice: Elitar I. Sulle tracce di Milan Kundera [Code Name Elitar I. In the Footsteps of Milan Kundera] by well-known French journalist Ariane Chemin will take you on a journey through a nostalgic Europe full of fervour. If you want to bet on a letter, as the gambler does on the colour, then there is Kappa: volume 6 is dedicated to Magic, in its different meanings.

Post scriptum

For sailors about to set sail or simply ready to relax the pace to fully enjoy the beginning of August. There is no journey without movement. Whether it is a motion of the heart, an inspiration or a carefree wander through towns and cities, familiar or unfamiliar places, the combination in question brings together the daring. The colours that of the eyewear, in Marcolin’s collections are its outfit. And in these capacities, we offer two readings: Come ti vesti [How You Dress] by Andrea Batilla, and A Manchester con gli Smith, un walkabout musicale, [In Manchester with the Smiths, A Musical Walkabout] by Giuseppina Borghese, because every outfit you wear needs a soundtrack to accompany it.

Iconic 1980s

From Italian Journey to Made in Italy

No foreign literary work has contributed as much to building an imaginary of our country as the famous Italian Journey by the prolific German scholar J. W. Von Goethe, who travelled through Italy between 1786 and 1788, portraying it as an ideal place of beauty, suspended between the Eden-like dimension of its landscapes and the sublime inspiration of its art. It was not until the 1980s that this zeitgeist was transcended into matter. And while it is true that a decade later, the rock band Afterhours were singing that “You can’t get out alive from the 80s”, it was precisely in those years that Italy came back to the fore with a new identity: bold, industrious and organised with a production system recognised for its high quality and unmistakable style. The ‘Made in Italy’ concept, which took off in those years, decreed the success of an exquisitely Italian heritage, in many respects.

Retro forays into eyewear had feminine shapes. Cat-eye and elongated, but also slightly trapezoidal, in both dark and coloured tones, the influences of which follow certain collections produced by Marcolin

From fashion to design, from food to mechanics

There were four categories that defined the identity of an entire country: clothing, agri-food, furniture and automobiles. The designers who championed the ‘Made in Italy’ concept the most include the genius that was Gianfranco Ferré, known for the harmonious volumes of his creations, celebrated for the impeccable style of his pinstripe suits and for turning the shirt into a fetish. The women he imagined for his creations, at a time when the euphoria of prosperity was often overshadowed by superficial appearances, alluded to the rediscovery of their power. Women could aspire to top roles in society. Hence the formal style accompanied by the bold nature of their accessories. Retro forays into eyewear had feminine shapes: cat-eye and elongated, but also slightly trapezoidal, in both dark and coloured tones, the influences of which follow one another in the thread of the story, from the temples to the lenses, in certain collections produced by Marcolin.

Sometimes They Come Back

It is not only the title of one of the most significant short stories by Stephen King, the king of thrillers, published in Italy in 1981, that links the last gasps of the 1970s to the new era. The zeitgeist comes in wearing full revival silhouettes: these include the iconic round, coloured or tortoiseshell glasses inspired by Andy Warhol, appearing in the brightly coloured magazines, film sets and city streets of the West and of Italy full of ardour, as well as the famous teardrop lenses which made a comeback thanks to the films of an era seductive in terms of aesthetics and storylines. And it is with this spirit, conjuring up pages from books, archive footage and films, that Marcolin gave a voice to these atmospheres in its collections.

From fashion to design, from food to mechanics, four categories redefined the identity of the country: clothing, agri-food, furniture and automobiles. The Made in Italy concept took off in those years

Augmented Reality

A project of training and customer experience

Training for employees will rely on the potential of augmented reality technology, following up and developing the Marcolin Manufacturing Academy program: entering the heart of the creative and manufacturing departments wearing a virtual reality headset will be the easiest way to learn processes and skills for the creation of unique objects. Sabrina Paulon, Group HR Director at Marcolin, points out how this project, starting from its first phase within training for its employees, has been now expanded. «Extending the project also to our customer experience was quite natural for the company». Touching by hand the excellence of our production and transmitting knowledge about identity and uniqueness of the creative process, among craftsmanship, technological innovation and manufacturing 4.0, is part of this experience. Customers and partners worldwide, thanks to all-around environments through video footage, will shorten distances and will have a remote access to the Italian factories.

The headset offers an immersive experience in the Longarone headquarters, where the company was founded in 1961 and the Fortogna production facilities

Augmented reality

Once worn, the headset offers an immersive experience in the Longarone headquarters, where the company was founded in 1961, and the Fortogna production facilities. Immersive mode is based on a technology that gives the user a complete view of a space from a stand position. The environments to be explored are those relating to production: from the creative process to prototyping, followed by manufacturing steps, and ending with the product distribution. The last sequence of this journey through Marcolin’s world ends with a sale inside an opticians’ store.

Every environment has its own special object to meet. What makes this immersive experience, which can be enjoyed conveniently anywhere in the world

Interact with objects

In each of these environments, there is an object to interact with. Looking at it and having a tactile experience is part of the project’s immersive suggestions. What could the object be? The unique result of Marcolin’s inventiveness: extraordinary pieces from the collections, the craftsmanship of a design detail or production stage, or even the detail of a pair of glasses going from their unfinished state through the manufacturing process. Every environment has its own special object to meet. What makes this immersive experience, which can be enjoyed conveniently anywhere in the world, truly unique is not only the pre-recorded voice guiding the user through the manufacturing process. A live version will soon be available in which customers and partners will be able to be accompanied by a representative from Marcolin who, via a remote connection, will make the experience even more customisable, tailored to the needs of the individual customer, partner or simple Marcolin brand enthusiast.

The eclectic 1970s

Star issues

This is what we could call the themes, like the echoes of the famous (star) wars by director George Lucas, that marked the decade: amidst new intergalactic and imaginary spaces to be explored, political and social revolutions that defined its contours through the renewal of taste and lifestyle of an era that was revolutionary in many ways. This turmoil, which was linked to the revolutions of the previous decade through a contradictory sense of defeat and victory at the same time by those involved in the counterculture, rediscovered an individualism that tended to express itself in eccentricities: from the serial and irreverent art of Andy Warhol to the disturbing sounds of Lou Reed and the Velvet Underground, through to Elton John and David Bowie, who with unparalleled originality sang of the unknown of another space beyond the earth. And in terms of design, how did this turmoil permeate everyday spaces and accessories? Through a revolution of taste with unequivocal intent.

Catalysing what we see

The identity of the decade shifted from the world of ideas to the world of design with a significant post-modern twist. It was the clean, essential lines of the world of objects, particularly those relating to lighting – with the consecration of the immaculate white pendant lamps – that were juxtaposed with imaginative, typically optical effects, the result of influences from the world of psychedelia still in vogue, characterising the geometric shapes of the brightly coloured wallpapers that decorated homes. The destiny of colours seemed tied in with that of shapes artfully constructed to deceive the eye: optical art, which originated at the end of the 1960s, developed and found the best framework to express itself in the decade that followed, combining two colours in particular: black and white, the matching of which gave way to its most congenial use in fashion and accessories. The mood board of this style, with its nods to science fiction, also through the use of oversized glasses with a printed effect, is well captured in the video clip created by Jack Whiteley and Laura Brownhill for the song Bennie and The Jets, by Elton John, who at that time was intent on carving out a place for himself in the temple of style: performing in front of an audience with flashy sunglasses, richly decorated even at sunset, becoming a viaticum for the iconography of an era. But it was the boldly shaped and brightly coloured glasses that best represented the ironic and eagerly light-hearted tones of that current of taste, the offspring of those flowers we all know, which helped give a new impetus to the objects and interior design of the period. The close link claimed by the revival of oriental philosophies and the need for a sense of wellbeing linked to a state of nature is imbued with the trend that still influences Marcolin’s most glamorous and luxury collections, with their bold shapes and pastel colours.

It was the boldly shaped and brightly coloured glasses that best represented the ironic and eagerly light-hearted tones of that current of taste, the offspring of those flowers we all know

Experimenting with new materials

Just like designers of the decade, turning to new shapes and materials. From pop culture and the world of animation came mouths, hands, vegetables to be transformed into the most eclectic of seats. From the desire to experiment, however, came the need to focus on new materials. Even controversial ones. This is not the case with foam rubber – the forerunner of polyurethane foam – but with plastic, regarding the use of which the two opposite poles of the counterculture clashed: the hippy one, which abhorred the very word because “…plastic was used for mass-produced objects, easy to manipulate and lacking in authenticity. Plastic people had the same attributes,” as Ken Goffman wrote in his book Counterculture Through the Ages. In contrast, for Warhol, plastic possessed qualities: flexibility, mutability, variability. “In the realm of authenticity, flexibility can be suspect,” Goffman continued, pointing out the contrast in aesthetics and thinking of a highly contradictory decade, which prompted part of the hippy movement to follow Warhol’s eccentric variability, characterised by his ironic detachment. After all, the artist went down in history for being attracted by money, fame and superficial beauty.

From the idea to the prototype

Everything stems from an idea

Accompanied by our expert guide Simone Longo, who is the Prototyping Manager for Marcolin Group worldwide, we discover that in the creation of a pair of glasses with a unique design and a perfect fit, there is an intermediate part of the process which, like a bridge between two worlds, verifies the feasibility of an idea and can prevent any errors in the subsequent production phase. Prototyping is very close to the concept of virtuosity and does what is expected of someone who is used to experimenting: combining a high degree of technical skill and experience with a virtue linked to a dimension of the soul, empathy. “For us, everything starts with the idea, established through an aesthetic drawing or a draft, from the designer or brand,” explains Longo. For an idea to be transformed into a product, it is vital to be able to capture its essence, that unique matrix to which a body can then be given. It is the understanding of the message to be communicated that allows the prototype maker to proceed to the next stage of the prototype production process.

Prototyping is very close to the concept of virtuosity and does what is expected of someone who is used to experimenting: combining a high degree of technical skill and experience with empathy

Project feasibility

“Starting with the sketch of the idea, we produce an initial 2D drawing that leads to a preliminary discussion with the designer. The critical aspects of a project are already emerging at this stage. Only afterwards is the 3D model made, with which the technical correctness and compliance with the aesthetic requirement is checked in detail,” Longo continues, moving inside that special world.
It is divided into two areas: the first is the design part, in which experienced technicians develop the design using the latest technologies such as 3D printers, and they also mill the materials. The second, on the other hand, is characterised by the craftsmanship of the artisans, operators who, with the help of numerous small machines, assemble the glasses and give that final touch of sensitivity that contributes to making the end result special. The prototype department must be able to develop any type of machining required, with the ability to have control over quality and meet deadlines.

For us, everything starts with the idea, established through an aesthetic drawing or a draft, from the designer or brand. For an idea to be transformed into a product, it is vital to be able to capture that unique matrix to which a body can then be given

Prototyping is a multi-lane motorway

This is how Longo imagines it. “In one lane we have maintained and enhanced craftsmanship, whose approach leaves more room for the sensitivity of the prototype maker. The other lanes, on the other hand, are reserved for the development of paths leading towards virtual reality and new technologies. It is often the brands themselves that prompt us, by means of projects which we know from the outset will not go into production, but which will give us the opportunity to test out new production methods.” The use of 3D printing has proved successful in two ways. Firstly, because a preview of a prototype provides an opportunity for dialogue with the designer, reducing reworking, wasted material and time. Secondly because it has made it possible to simulate stages of production that it would not be possible to use for reasons of cost and time in a very short time frame. Research and the desire to experiment are ongoing goals, pushing us towards ever greater targets: to have all stages of development taking place in-house, with the best possible output in order to ensure high quality and on-time delivery. Working on strategic areas has always been one of Marcolin Group’s key strengths.