Alessio Puleo

1

To sum up the past year: what tools were implemented to support the growth of Marcolin’s brand portfolio globally?

«2023 was an amazing year: Marcolin continued the renovation path started in 2020, which allowed us to improve all the financial indicators. We signed a perpetual licensing agreement with TOM FORD Eyewear, finalized the acquisition of the German brand ic! berlin, entered a new partnership with MCM, and renewed the licensing agreement with Pucci, which is part of LVMH Group and a key brand for us. At this very moment, if I had to define our brand portfolio with two words, I would say: balanced and complementary. Balanced because our portfolio covers all the market clusters and customer needs; complementary because each brand has its own unique role and there is no risk of brands overlapping».

« Our portfolio covers all the market clusters and customer needs”.
2

In this “hot” period of renewals, how do you approach licenses?

«In the first few months of 2024, we renewed some strategic license agreements for the Group, such as the ones with GCDS, ZEGNA and MAX&Co., and announced the debut in the eyewear segment of an iconic luxury brand such as Christian Louboutin. This was made possible thanks to our unique approach, which goes well beyond the typical licensor-licensee relationship: we consider our licensed brands as strategic partners with whom we can build long-term projects based on value creation, where brand equity is the fundamental principle that guides our daily actions.  Our partners also appreciate Marcolin’s unique ability to transpose their brand’s DNA into collections. And, last but not least, our manufacturing know-how allows us to create objects of extremely high quality».

« Our partners also appreciate Marcolin’s unique ability to transpose their brand’s DNA into collections ».
3

What are the key targets for 2024? Should we expect any new entries or news?

«2024 will be an intense year in which we will strengthen the growth of our historic brands and finalize the launch of MCM for FW24 and of Christian Louboutin for SS25.”

What eyewear will we wear?

Lightness & style

Let’s start with WEB Eyewear, which continues to be a much-loved brand, especially by under 40 customers, thanks to its decidedly urban and contemporary identity enhanced by transparent frames and a few iconic details. Just like the acetate sunglasses unveiled at MIDO, characterized by a truly unique design that nods to the 1930s buts looks to the future. Apart from WEB Eyewear, of the many brands presented by Marcolin, it is impossible not to mention the latest MAX&Co. collection and its new line of ultra-lightweight and vibrant frames, perfect for wearers who follow fashion trends but who are not afraid to play with color or Rock ‘n’ Roll inspired studded inserts.

latest MAX&Co. collection and its new line of ultra-lightweight and vibrant frames

Some details

The new offer includes the designs from the GUESS Eyewear collection, featuring the iconic chain and the embossed logo on a precious metal plaque, and the new squared sunglasses, which are destined to be the undisputed stars of the spring summer season. On the other hand, now that the 80’ are back in full swing (but updated to the present) here come the wraparound and asymmetric GCDS frames: a bold design for an unmistakable style.

About sport

Among the new products presented, adidas Eyewear is a true must-have. Like the shield design from the Competition line, featuring a rimless lens (presented in a version that reduces bright light and improves color perception), wraparound lines and shaped temples offering the best possible fit. The perfect eyewear for sports lovers. The Originals collection, instead, shines the spotlight on the new unisex adidas sunglasses. The design stands out for its very unique geometric front, while the metal temples make it the perfect choice also for the city. Buzzword: versatility.

Stefano Galuzzi

Celebrated fashion photographer Stefano Galuzzi – whose images over the past years have graced the pages of illustrious magazines of the caliber of Vogue Mexico & Ukraine, 10 Magazine, Porter, The Edit, Vanity Fair, Italian GQ and L’Express Styles – also shot the latest WEB Eyewear campaign, Marcolin’s house brand that is globally appreciated for its design and style. Let’s meet him to learn more about the philosophy and “behind the scenes” of his job.

1

What pushed you to take a Master’s Degree in Photography after your Literature Degree and how did you make your debut in the fashion industry with a prestigious magazine like Vogue?

It was just by chance. During my Modern Literature studies, I ran into a former high school classmate of mine who, every week, used to photograph young actors from a theater company and who asked me to help him.  The darkroom really enraptured me: I was immediately intrigued by photo shooting.  The director of the theater company, who recognized my talent, let me attend an advanced photography course at Superstudio in Milan. After that, I started working as an assistant for two big names, Giampaolo Barbieri and Mauro Balletti, who was Mina’s photographer. Then, together with my future wife and muse, stylist Tanya Jones, I started creating a portfolio of street photos, shot in my favorite places around Milan, my hometown. During this job, I met Piero Piazzi, who at the time ran a prestigious modeling agency in Milan. He was so impressed by my work that he phoned Franca Sozzani at once: I met her the following day and she immediately offered me 20 pages for Vogue Italia.

 

« when I’m shooting, it all comes out naturally, without looking for any specific reference »
2

Your fashion shoots stand out for their unique shots, which seem to follow a sort of cinematic approach: can you tell us how you prepare for a new project?

I can tell you that I prepare myself every day, with books, magazines, movies and life itself. A mix of ideas, images and hints that I take in and that pervade my imagination. Then, when I’m shooting, it all comes out naturally, without looking for any specific reference, and this allows me to be creative and never ordinary.

3

Talking about the WEB Eyewear campaign that you shot recently, what elements guided you in this job?

Well, I love places where architecture, rather than just creating a space, tells a story. In this specific case, we’re talking about Gio Ponti, who was not just an architect, he was a visionary poet who created architecture where people can feel like the undisputed stars of a poetic and magic dimension. Marcolin has chosen this space very well: a rare example of Italian culture that we tried to bring to life with the WEB campaign shots.

Eyewear: the new luxury

Crowded, lively and full of guests and news. This was the photograph of the 52nd edition of MIDO, one of the leading international exhibitions dedicated to eyewear, which has just come to an end at Rho Fiera, Milan. A prestigious event which, every year, attracts thousands of visitors: the ideal opportunity to present new products and focus on upcoming trends, like those of Marcolin in the luxury segment.

The novelties

It’s a must to start with Marcolin’s new house brand ic! berlin, young and highly innovative brand with German DNA which, since 1996, has been producing high quality frames in stainless steel and following a design that is screwless, and without glue or welding.  At MIDO, ic! berlin was present with the newest “Silk PURE”, an ultra-light and thin collection, designed with fine color options like aqua or mauve and a meticulous attention to details. Within Marcolin’s booth, TOM FORD Eyewear introduced a new and sophisticated oval frame with faceted rims, while ZEGNA presented its last novelty: “Orizzonte II”. In acetate and metal, the heir of “Orizzonte I” expresses the innovative elegance and distinctive sophistication of the brand through the 232 Road Brand Mark as well as the ZEGNA logo.

Trendy shapes

Marcolin also presented the new eyewear line from PUCCI, the iconic Maison known for its textures and colours, with its latest collection with a geometric design and elegant details such as the fishtail in the acetate front. Then, with the latest Max Mara collection oversized frames such as one with in acetate with a rounded butterfly front and bold rims were the protagonist. The new Maxim signifier is inserted on the bridge, embellishing the style with a gleaming, glamorous touch.

How to combine lenses and acetates?

Choosing Colors

Acetate frames and colored lenses: a duo that offers countless opportunities but that, surprisingly, also follows very specific rules. We asked to Silvia De Col, who works at Marcolin’s Style & Design Department, to reveal some of them. «First, there are styling rules which are associated with the history, image and personality of every single brand in Marcolin’s portfolio: every brand has its own iconic and representative colour palette. These are the must-have that any collection just can’t do without. There’s room to play with all the possible variations, but our job is to keep an eye on the latest fashion trends, both those linked to the world of accessories and eyewear and the general ones linked to the season and the historical moment we face.The project itself is also important, what we want to tell with the eyewear we are creating. Full lenses, cosmetics with neutral tones combined with Havana frames for a project, for example, linked to the world of natural colours. Mirrored lenses and brighter colored frames for a sportive mood. At this point, starting from our archive, we start to select to arrive at pairing proposals to be shared with the licenses».

Every frame has its challenge

Flat or spherical? Single- or two-lens? Also, the geometries of lenses or masks affect the final colour choice. «Together with the designer and based on the requests and DNA of the brand, a study taking into account the most suitable geometries for the creation of the new eyewear is carried out. For example, if you want to create a sportier look we will work with more enveloping lenses and masks. If you are working on a more fashionable project, you can also indulge in flatter lenses and masks.

«The geometries of lenses or masks affect the final colour choice»

Trends for the next season

If it’s true that color combinations do not only depend on a brand’s DNA but also on fashion trends, let’s look at the eyewear trends for the next spring-summer collection. «I can only give you a little hint and anticipate that there will be “no in-between”: monotonal colors will prevail among the lenses even in cosmetic nuances with natural references, darker shades will also coexist to create dark or total black looks. For those who love mirrors, they will also be present this season, especially for the active and casual world. What about jewel-like inserts? They will be bolder and more eye-catching than before, the fruit of many different techniques and processes».

Eyewear? More than an accessory

Uniformity or differentiation? It’s the eternal fashion dilemma. That, of course, also regards accessories: they stress the message conveyed by the clothes we wear, becoming (just like perfume) our unique, personal “identifying signature”. And eyewear plays a key role here. «Because it allows us to see – or protect the eyes – but also to be spotted by others right away» remarks Paola Pizza, a fashion psychologist, blogger (psicologiadellamoda.com) and author of several essays, the most recent being “Il colore indossato” (Franco Angeli), co-written with Valeria Viero. «Fierce or sober? Breezy or creative?  Frame shapes and colors help highlight the unique features of our personality and, due to their strategic positioning, become a very powerful identifying tool».

But you have to know what you want. «Some people want to stand out from the crowd with a unique design, a neon color or a precious detail, others want to feel part of a group. But the ensemble must be harmonious: if it’s inconsistent, we send the wrong message and lose our confidence. A classic black sheath dress worn with small, “good girl” style black sunglasses sends a totally different message than the same outfit paired with an eye-catching, colorful frame. It’s more or less like shoes: there’s a huge difference between flats and a pair of gold sandals. Eyewear, just like our hair and make-up (to stay focused on the face) should strike a balance with our whole look.  This is true for shoes, bags or hats, but all the more so for an accessory that is destined to last well beyond a season».

«What tribe do you belong to?»

«In psychology we make a distinction between “high self-monitors”, i.e. individuals who are more aware of how others could judge them and are more likely to follow trends or be inspired by the look of their “role models”, and “low self-monitors”. The latter are more introspective, self-centered and less likely to be influenced by fashion. While the first type will tend to change glasses more often, based on their mood or outfit, the second will stick to a frame of higher quality that is made to last». What tribe do you belong to?

Innovative Style Refined: TOM FORD Eyewear Collection

Introducing the TOM FORD Eyewear Archive Collection which pays homage to the iconic styles that have defined the brand’s illustrious 20-year history.  TOM FORD Eyewear, renowned for its iconic status, stands tall for its unmatched elegance, top-notch quality, and meticulous attention to detail. In the 2023-2024 collection, one of the most legendary eyewear models in history has been masterfully reimagined: the iconic Whitney model.

Worn by celebrities such as Jennifer Aniston, Madonna, Charlize Theron, Gwen Stefani, Kate Moss, Keira Knightley. The Whitney eyewear stands out for the unmistakable line of its « Infinity cross », the crossing of the front which gives the look a butterfly effect that winks at the Seventies. In re-visiting The Whitney frame, the TOM FORD Archive Collection, debuts in four models with new shapes and identities, each easily recognizable, without giving up the magnetic element of a design with great visual impact: from the Nicoletta model, in titanium and limited edition, up to the Bettina, Fernanda and Jada models, with semi-transparent lenses and contrasting colored frames.

 

Innovate without betraying your roots. Here to lies the secret of the success of a luxury brand like TOM FORD. Which, not limiting itself to city glasses, on the eve of the ski season proposes Après Ski 2023, a collection of four different ski goggles with photochromic and interchangeable mirror lenses with different designs: from the Rellen model, which revisits the Seventies, up to the most high-tech masks, with magnetic lenses and a practical elastic band. To not give up style even in the snow.

Isabelle Moes

Isabelle, you were covering a management role for Marcolin Benelux subsidiary when the top management of companies was all male: can you tell us how it went?

So, I’ve never felt any discrimination for being a young woman, since I had just become a young mother, and I worked in a company that was mostly men. Everything was very normal. I didn’t feel any difference between me and my male colleagues. I think that Marcolin has always been a big family, and I felt right at home in the team.

Now that you also find yourself managing a very important and strategic market segment such as that of the central EMEA area (France and Benelux), can you tell us what the next challenges are for eyewear in these markets?

It’s rather unsettling to know what challenges the experts predicted we would face over the next few years, which is that there will increasingly be a certain structure in the market. The market will become more structured. Lots of independent companies are being bought or are merging, which means that as suppliers of frames for independent opticians, we will also need to become more and more professional. We will need to negotiate with them differently than before. Previously, I found the market very easy because our clients were opticians who only had two or three stores. Now, we are looking at a different scale, with opticians who have 100, 150 stores. So, it’s a different structure, a different approach.

« I think that is what is most important for the future: continuing to truly listen to our clients »

After many years in this Company, what are your thoughts on Marcolin’s strengths? And what are the new objectives instead, in a world that evolves so rapidly?

The company’s strength is our close relationship with our clients. This closeness means that people really appreciate the fact that we are by their side, we work closely with them, and they really think of us as a company that is international in scale, but still a small enterprise because we work closely with them. That is important to them because they feel like we really listen. I think that is what is most important for the future: continuing to truly listen to our clients. By being at their side, responding to their needs and doing so quickly, working with them rather than imposing things on them. And that is how we will succeed.

Eyewear for the festive season

In Cortina

With its 66 ski runs and 34 lifts, the pearl of the Dolomites confirms itself as one of the most prestigious ski resorts, immersed as it is in the magical setting of these unique mountains. But Cortina is also all about glamour. Between lunch at the famous Chalet Tofane restaurant and dinner at a mountain refuge (choose from Dibona, Federa and Mietres), heading back to the hotel with a romantic night sleigh ride; shopping in the boutiques of Corso Italia, at the centre of which stands the symbol of Cortina, the Dolomite stone bell tower built in the mid-19th century; a gourmet snack in one of the two famous patisseries, or a pre-dinner drink at the Enoteca Baita Fraina (in the centre) or at the picturesque Masi Wine Bar, right in front of the famous Col Druscié ski run. So many unforgettable moments to admire from behind a pair of glasses from the GUESS Holiday ’23 Collection, the geometrically shaped cat-eye glasses created especially for this festive season, illuminated by a crystal set in the temples that reproduces the iconic triangular shape of the GUESS logo. Feminine, festive and full of character.

In Berlin

A classic tour ‘Unter den Linden’ in the borough of Mitte, in the rationalist city of Mies van der Rohe, or the hunt for alternative boutiques in young, vibrant areas such as Friedrichshanin, Landwehrkanal or up-and-coming Neukölln. Even at this time of year, Berlin offers the opportunity to immerse yourself in a variety of styles, from the past to the future, from historic buildings to new neighborhoods with alternative bookstores and the workshops of young designers. A city to be explored with the right outfit, warm and casual, perhaps accentuated by a special accessory such as a pair of Max Mara glasses, dedicated to the quintessential ‘It’ coat, the cosy Teddy bear coat, which is ten years old this year. A frame with character, created for the occasion, that embraces and protects the gaze, telling a story of precious details and modernity. And, after dinner in one of the little restaurants in the festively decorated Bergmannstrasse covered market, a stop at the Kreuzberg border is a must, to celebrate the New Year in a techno club like the iconic Berghain.

The perfect setting to shield yourself from the Florida sun with the fiery red-rimmed glasses from Pucci’s new eyewear collection.

In Miami

Relax at the tables of a small bar on South Beach or stroll through the hip Wynwood district, once the city’s industrial centre and now home to the much-anticipated Art Basel Miami Beach, which takes place every year at the beginning of December. It’s great to ring in the New Year among the colours, museums, murals and clubs of Miami. The perfect setting to shield yourself from the Florida sun with the fiery red-rimmed glasses from Pucci’s new eyewear collection. Elegant, sophisticated and embellished by the fishtail logo in which, inspired by the 1953 ‘Capri Sport’ label, two fish intertwine their silhouettes to form the letter ‘P’. A model that fully represents Pucci’s unique identity and personality. A style must-have for sunbathing on the rooftop of Astra, one of the most glamorous cocktail bars on the scene, exploring the Miami Design District, shopping in the Little Haiti markets or enjoying a pre-dinner drink on the rooftop terrace of the famous Area 31.

In the snow of the Dolomites

A unique region

Magical all year round, the Dolomites, a Unesco World Heritage Site, are at their most beautiful in winter, when it’s cold and snowy. For anyone wanting to indulge in the pleasure of skiing on some of the most beautiful and famous slopes in the world, and for those who simply want to immerse themselves in the special atmosphere of the end-of-year festivities in San Candido, Brunico, Corvara, San Cassiano, San Martino di Castrozza, Madonna di Campiglio, Selva di Cadore… Surrounded by snow-capped peaks, small villages, Christmas markets, exhibitions and, of course, all the flavors of local food and wine.

Stop off in Cortina

When it comes to skiing, Cortina remains the most prestigious resort in the Dolomites. Already an official venue for World Cup races and a future venue for the 2026 Winter Olympics, it offers skiers magnificent slopes in at least three districts: Tofane, Faloria-Cristallo and Lagazuoi-5 Torri. But also the chance to try out new Fat Bike routes, surf the snow with a snow kite or learn how to drive a husky sled. But people also go to Cortina just for the glamour. It is no coincidence that GUESS, a global brand of clothing and accessories, kicked off this year’s Winter Experience project in Cortina, where the brand has opened a new boutique at Via Cesare Battisti 11 for the occasion. The project was created to combine shopping and winter activities in one of the coolest ski resorts in the world.

What to see

Getting off the beaten track is easy. For those travelling to the Dolomites at this time of year, there is also Andraz Castle on the Falzarego Pass or the famous wooden nativity scene in Tesero, in the heart of the Fiemme Valley. And then it’s nice to get lost among the small woodcarving shops in Ortisei, to go for a walk to Lake Braies, to Alpe di Fanes or to take a break in the warm waters of the Pejo thermal baths. There are various itineraries that will allow you to admire the ever-present trees decorated with the traditional star made of straw or bread dough, the frightening masks of the Krampus figures, the candles of Santa Lucia and the rituals of the little star singers who go from house to house singing Christmas carols in exchange for delicious Lebkuchen, the traditional freshly baked Tyrolean biscuits.