The Art of Craftsmanship: a project by Tim Walker

A traveling exhibit

Tod’s pays homage to craftsmanship, to Italian savoir-faire, with a project and an exhibition that are traveling the world and that stem from the collaboration with a fashion photographer of the caliber of Tim Walker. We are talking about The Art of Craftsmanship, A project by Tim Walker: a gallery of photos depicting, with a hint of irony and great imagination, the manufacturing process of Tod’s iconic products.

The importance of details

This project wishes to speak of the evolution of objects through the tools used to manufacture them and the skilled hands that shape and assemble the different materials together, to highlight the fact that the most valuable asset and what really makes a difference in the creation process of objects such as the iconic Di Bag and Gommino is craftsmanship itself.

Same attention to eyewear

These are the values on which the collaboration between Marcolin and Tod’s is built, a collaboration that today gives life to a new collection made instantly recognizable by its unique elements, such as the unmistakable leather braid on the temples or the metal chain detail inspired by the exclusive Kate collection. Signature details that don’t go unnoticed, reflecting a contemporary vision of Italian excellence.

Image storytelling

To do this, the vision of Tim Walker was crucial, a man who can turn a setting into a dream full of magic, while always staying true to Irving Penn’s famous motto: “I always thought we were selling dreams, not clothes”. On the setting, Walker thus plays with the double meaning of the objects crafted and of the tools used during the key manufacturing phases: leather cutting, sewing, brushing. A celebration of the Italian lifestyle and craftsmanship quality – key values for Tod’s – using an ironic and free-spirited language.

A new service

Workers or balancers?

Maintaining a good work-life balance; constantly facing change and challenges on both fronts; establishing positive relationships with colleagues and superiors. These are all regular topics in every worker’s daily life but, over the past few years, they have also become a source of great stress.  Because something has changed. We talked about it a few days ago during the World Mental Health Day: in Italy, just like in the United States and in other European countries, workers have been experiencing a sense of discomfort. Why is that? Because the stress levels are too high.

 

Some figures

According to the latest data, 56% of Italians are under stress, an 8% increase versus last year (source: the International Workforce and Wellbeing Mindset Study and the Axa-Ipsos Survey). A pretty significant number if you consider that almost 80% of them think that their general well-being is strongly connected with workplace well-being. On the other hand, 92% of workers, including both men and women, deem it important that companies actively take care of employee psychological well-being. In light of all this, Marcolin decided to embrace the good practices implemented by some international companies and introduced a workplace counseling service for all its employees in Italy.

The new counseling service

The service, supported by Odm Consulting (a consulting company specialized in human resources management and enhancement) and in partnership with the Sygmund platform (run by an Institute registered with the National Health Service and supervised by the National Register of Psychologists), is available 24/7 (seven days a week) to all the employees. The counseling service aims to help employees handle personal and work-related problems more effectively, favor self-awareness, promote dialogue and well-being, while of course allowing them to remain anonymous and respecting their privacy. This project is just one of the many initiatives that Marcolin Group has always carried out for its employees, as their well-being and value are considered a top priority. All these projects are part of a vision where welfare, vocational training (thanks to the various Academies operating across the Group) and flexibility are the key assets on which the company’s success is based.

The Maxim

1

How did you come up with the idea of a precious detail in the creative process that led to the Max Mara signifier?

Ideas are always born from a need, and in this case we needed to characterize the eyewear, to make it more recognizable, which is increasingly complicated in today’s crowded market. Max Mara has its own behavioral code, which derives from and conveys elegance, charisma and awareness. So we were inspired by these values, along with the ability to stand out from the crowd but without raising one’s voice; in this case we created a geometric element with well-studied proportions that was the fruit of great experimentation. Maxim goes beyond the idea of a simple decoration, becoming a detail that makes the eyewear recognizable, while at the same time enhancing the eyes of the wearer, without arrogantly imposing itself. It’s the same Effortless and Allure philosophy that clearly characterizes the Max Mara collections.

 

2

What can a precious detail add to a unique everyday accessory like eyewear?

Metal is a material that instantly brings wealth to mind, and it is also strong, reassuring and endless. It reflects light more than any other material, it makes us sparkle, it dances with light, creating movement and catching the eye.

Metal is a material that instantly brings wealth to mind, and it is also strong, reassuring and endless.
3

Sensorial or sentimental: what type of pleasure does a jewel most satisfy?

Jewels recall a combination of at times contrasting sensations. Sometimes they recall vanity, sometimes the emotionality of a certain moment, sometimes they are reassuring. Gold and stones are precious materials because they lie deep inside the womb of the Earth for millions of years, finding them and making them sparkle is risky and complicated. Gold is immutable and untarnished, it doesn’t change over time, nothing affects it, that’s why it’s a symbol of the eternal promise of love. And that’s why it increases in value through the years and the generations: the jewel we wear tells our story, reassuring us that it will tell it forever, keeping our memory alive.

Performing vision

Wellbeing and safety

Wearing the right eyewear when exercising outdoors, whether you’re walking, cycling or running, is crucial to your wellbeing and safety. Particularly when running, details such as weight, frame stability, and breadth and sharpness of vision are decisive when it comes to training or competing.

New from Adidas

Adidas Sport Eyewear models have been developed specifically to optimise sporting performance. As well as protecting your eyes from the sun and wind, the brand’s latest models, SP0088 and SP0089, feature an adjustable nose piece to ensure the best possible fit and temples with an internal rubber grip to guarantee better stability during physical activity. They also cater for sportsmen and women with eyesight problems who want to be free of contact lenses.

Clip-ins

The mechanics of these new models are all inside the frame where, with a simple gesture, the prescription lenses can be inserted and clipped directly onto the nose piece. The result is perfect vision, as confirmed by some of the journalists and athletes who tested them during the latest Adidas Experience, a 20-kilometre run along a scenic route in the Dolomites. “Stable and bounce-free, lightweight and practical: the lenses are easy to attach and remove,” comments British journalist and storyteller Matt Kollat.

The opinions

“What strikes you about these glasses is the wide, 180-degree vision and the excellent ventilation: the lenses don’t fog up, you don’t have to take them off because you’re sweating,” adds German photographer and outdoor blogger Björn Ahrndt, who wears contact lenses for sports. Test passed, then. The same goes for photochromic lenses, which help you cope with changing weather conditions and see well when switching from total shade to sunlight. Another requirement for anyone wanting to enjoy outdoor sports all year round, whatever the season.

What strikes you about these glasses is the wide, 180-degree vision

SILMO 2023: Marcolin in Paris

Also this year Marcolin was among the players attending Silmo Paris, the international fair dedicated to optics and eyewear held every year in Paris, in the pavilions of Paris Nord Villepinte, this year in the same days of the Paris Fashion Week. Established in 1967 with 58 exhibitors in a space of 1500 square metres, the International Eyewear, Optics and Optical Equipment Exhibition has grown over the years to occupy 70,000 square meters of space with the stands of 700 exhibitors representing a total of 1500 brands.

 

The countries

An international event which, this year, attracted more than 30,000 visitors, 54% of whom came from abroad, for a total of 130 countries represented, among which Italy, Belgium, Germany, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, Spain, the United States, Switzerland, Tunisia and Morocco. This year edition was dedicated to the “Silmo generation”. A way to underline, after 50 years of history, the continuity and passing of the baton from one generation to another, in historic companies as well as in younger and smaller ones.

Marcolin booth

It is within this context that, through the inevitable yellow catwalk and the scenographic touch of the large, coloured spheres at the entrance, Marcolin’s booth stood out for the elegance of its black&white and the creation of unique corners within it. In which the eyewear, the true protagonist of this great event, are presented broken down into the smallest details and carefully recomposed within paintings displayed inside the booth. And thus tell the visitors the story of great manufacturing capacity of the company based in Longarone.

 

Highlights

Among the novelties presented by Marcolin, Tom Ford Eyewear includes a new interpretation of the iconic Whitney frame, one of the cornerstones of the brand. The refined “infinity cross”, which creates the butterfly effect on the front, is the stunning magnetic element of a design with great visual impact that has made the Whitney a favorite of several celebrities. The style is presented in four new versions, including a limited edition in ultra-light gold or platinum-plated titanium. Zegna Eyewear comes up with a frame inspired by Oasi Zegna, the headquarter in the Italian Alps that concretizes the brand’s aesthetic and philosophical principles. The frame, featuring the iconic 232 Road Brand Mark, embodies all the values that distinguish the recent re-branding of Zegna. Guess Eyewear presents a new pair of sunglasses made of bio-based material that expresses the brand’s contemporary character through trendy style. Max Mara Eyewear showcases a modern silhouette for acetate sunglasses with bold volumes, designed to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand’s iconic Teddy Bear coat. Adidas Sport Eyewear introduces a new full-rim Performance frame born from the fusion of design and technology. WEB Eyewear, Marcolin’s house brand and an official eyewear partner of Alfa Romeo F1® Team, unveils the new aesthetic principles of the brand: transparency and contemporary design.

Pink Ribbon

The small pink ribbon

A small pink ribbon, the same one that – since 1992 – has raised awareness about breast cancer prevention and early diagnosis worldwide, personalizes the temple tips of this eyewear. And the signature color pink characterizes the frames and lenses of the two new styles from the latest Guess Eyewear capsule collection.

Sunglasses to support The Get In Touch Foundation

A very special pair of sunglasses and an optical frame that bring together Guess Eyewear and Marcolin in their commitment c, the American non-profit association that, since 2007, has worked across schools and clinics to raise awareness about breast cancer prevention among women and girls.

A small pink ribbon has raised awareness about breast cancer prevention and early diagnosis worldwide, personalizes the temple tips of this eyewear

Dedicated to women

A commitment that started eight years ago and that every year turns into a new capsule collection specifically created and dedicated to women in the name of a key chapter in the story of women’s health. A topic that The Get In Touch foundation – founded by Mary Ann Wasil and run by her daughter Betsy after the passing of her mother – addresses by teaching women the importance and effectiveness of Daisy Wheel, a self-exam that can be performed since a very young age. A true lifesaver that enables women to know and check their body’s health.

two new elegant and lightweight frames that, in their dedicated case, will tinge October – Breast Cancer Awareness Month – with pink

October: Breast Cancer Awareness Month

To carry out its mission, the association collaborates, on a daily basis, with oncologists and gynecologists, organizes focus groups for younger girls and brings breast self-exam education to schools. A great commitment that, of course, needs everybody’s support. And so here come these two new elegant and lightweight frames that, in their dedicated case, will tinge October – Breast Cancer Awareness Month – with pink

6 things you don’t know about Marcolin

In 2021 it celebrated 60 years in business. During these 60 years Marcolin, the Italian company from Longarone that designs, manufactures and distributes eyewear worldwide, has gone a very long way. The 15 million pairs of glasses sold on average every year are a testament to this. But so are other figures.

1

Since 1968, Marcolin started speaking many languages. As an addition to its first 8 distributor network in the United States, another location opened in France in 1976, and the company soon expanded its presence worldwide with 15 branches in the US, Brazil, Asia, Mexico, Europe, Africa and the Middle East.

2

It’s a young company: 69% of its approximately 2000 employees are aged under 50 years, and 57% of them are women. And they are all engaged with vocational education and training: just think that over the past year they had over 5600 hours of training.

3

Today Marcolin distributes eyewear for more than 20 licensed brands in over 125 countries and has 1 proprietary brand (Web Eyewear).

4

One of its keys to success is the “time factor”: the creation of every new frame takes 11 months of hard work in Longarone. It’s the time needed to go from an idea to its design to the creation of a prototype –requiring great artisanal skills and precision- up to the selection of materials and colors and then the manufacturing phase.

The creation of every new glasses model takes 11 months of work.

5

But eyewear manufacturing also takes time. The time needed to carry out over 60 steps including, just to mention a few, temple and front creation, assembling, tumbling, cutting, and lens insertion. And then refinement, the phase where the frames are personalized, and adjusting, when all the components of a frame are checked.

6

Choco-camel or “foliage” tones. These are just two of the endless color options (and lens-frame combos) that are available today. But, whatever color is selected, to verify lens compliance with existing regulations and before and after any frame hits the market, a great number of optical and mechanical tests are conducted. Testing is carried out in-house by our Product Quality and Compliance Department and by the Marcolin Certification Lab, as well as by qualified third-party laboratories.

Choco-camel or “foliage” tones. These are just two of the endless color options (and lens-frame combos) that are available today

Zhou Guanyu

1

How did your passion for cars start?

My passion for cars started very young age around 5 or 6 years old. I just loved all the kart ways since I was a kid. Then I started karting. My family took me to the go kart track. When I tried it for the first time I absolute enjoyed it. It sounded like something I really wanted to do. Then I experienced the Chinese Grand Prix and I felt like I wanted to be one day a F1 driver. That was my dream that kind of happened and made of, always trying everything I could, going step by step to arrive here in F1.

2

In 2022 you were the first Chinese driver to compete in a Formula One Grand Prix. What is your next challenge?

The next goal I want to reach in F1 is a victory. Winning a race could be amazing and at the same time having my own race in China for the 2024 season, which is really great for me and gives me an extra motivation. I want to achieve more and more. Better finish, top five, victories step by step. Hopefully racing for my own crowd… this could be an amazing atmosphere to be remembered.

 

3

What is Italian identity for you, given that you drive an Alfa Romeo and usually wear Web Eyewear?

The Italian identity means quite a lot for me. My F1 team is Italian and gave me the opportunity to reach my dream and start my journey in F1. Then I love the Italian culture. I lived in Italy for almost three years, I drived the Ferrari Driver Academy before so I know quite well the country and the cities, fashion, and design. The Italian brands always bring cool stuff, surprising ideas like these stylish sunglasses I appreciate to wear at the track.

A journey that starts with an idea

The value of thought

With very few exceptions, today’s glasses are no longer made from rare, prized materials. But their value goes beyond the tangible nature of this aspect: it’s the creative process that makes the difference. In other words, that invisible, in some ways imperceptible, phase of work in which a thought is transformed into a sketch and then into a design, calling into play experience, hours of work, painstaking attention to detail. Thus begins the journey that will lead to the creation of a new frame, helping offer a precise view of the world. This is the intangible heritage we always find behind the creative process of a new frame, as everyone in the Marcolin Style Department knows. A way of working akin to the high engineering of the world of jewellery.

Each model has its own values, a precise history and different inspirational muses.

Eyewear as jewellery

It is precisely from the world of jewellery, where even the smallest detail – given the premium quality of the materials – must be taken care of with the utmost attention, that inspiration is taken to add value to a pair of glasses. Such as the insertion of small ‘wrong’ marks that can change refraction, create a chiaroscuro effect, break the perfection of a temple. Small interventions that mean an object is no longer characterised as mass produced and give it a very human uniqueness and, therefore, a greater value. Details that are not without significance. Because it is even in the smallest of gestures, such as choosing a pair of glasses, that we reveal how much value we attach to ourselves.

The emotional aspects

Coming up with a new collection, in fact, means taking a whole host of aspects into account. Starting with the fit, because a pair of glasses must, first and foremost, be comfortable. At the same time, however, it is a special object, which is always chosen following the heart, our most emotional organ. And which, by surrounding our eyes, communicates something about us to the rest of the world. The care that goes into the details in the creative phase is the very ingredient that can touch those senses and emotions, because it conveys the soul, the value of the licences with which a group like Marcolin works. In a nutshell, with each new collection, the challenge is to innovate by touching new sensory and emotional chords, while remaining true to the character of each brand: each model has its own values, a precise history and different inspirational muses. Everyone needs to be well aware of these aspects and follow them very closely.

Andrea Batilla

1

What places do you hold in your heart in this city, especially during the Fashion Week?

«For sure the Grand Hotel et de Milan coffee bar in via Manzoni, one of the city’s most prestigious hotels, built in 1880 and hosting the famous “Verdi suite” on the first floor, the room where Giuseppe Verdi passed away. The hotel bar, with a pleasantly retro appearance, is always very peaceful, even though it is located downtown: walking into this place is like entering a sort of parallel dimension. Ancient and very elaborate, playful yet melancholic at the same time. Another place that I hold in my heart and that is located just a few steps away is the Libreria Armani, one of the earliest fashion bookshops in Milan. It is also one of the most comprehensive ones, where I can always find very rare publications, such as essays and international magazines, that are impossible to find elsewhere in Milan. For fashion lovers it’s a little garden of delights, where one can spend a few very pleasant minutes. Lastly, Palazzo Morando, in via S. Andrea, which is also in the heart of the fashion district. The Palazzo is located inside a breathtaking noble residence (whose main structure dates back to the 1500s) and today hosts the Fashion Museum, where the dress collection of the Sforza Castle is stored. And the calendar of exhibitions organized at Palazzo Morando is always very interesting. For me, it’s a place worth visiting».

2

On the eve of the Fashion Week, how do you see the incoming catwalk season in Milan?

«There’s a lot of buzz about it, because – with all the “first times”, “last times” and “times of passage” – many interesting things will be unfolding. Talking about the first times, there’s a great curiosity about Tom Ford’s debut in Milan under Peter Hawkings’ new creative direction. In general, however, it’s a moment worth watching carefully because it’s a transitional moment, a shift towards quiet luxury; so, we’ll see how creatives will tackle the concept. This edition will mark a turning point between what belongs to the past and what belongs to the future».

3

How does Andrea Batilla see eyewear?

«Eyewear is one of the most interesting and mysterious accessories, because it changes the visual construction of our faces, i.e. how others perceive us. Frames are very specific objects that recall very specific historical and cultural contexts. While we can feel confused about how to dress, when we choose a frame to wear it’s always like walking into a movie. We become the main characters in this movie. It’s a magical experience. And eyewear is the only accessory that gives us this experience. Also, because it is the only one that is worn so close to the body».