Author: Newsroom

Marcolin in New York City

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In the heart of Manhattan

A few days ago, Marcolin celebrated the opening of its new showroom on the 19th floor of a luxury building located at 270 Madison Avenue, the “most instagrammable street in Manhattan,” where some of the world’s most famous luxury brands have their shop windows. Designed by Milan-based Navone Associati studio – which also created the Paris space in Rue de Richelieu – the new Marcolin showroom is a well-lit space with a large gallery dedicated to all the brands in the Group’s portfolio, next to the offices, and a beautiful terrace overlooking the typical New York City skyline.

Tradition meets augmented reality

On the evening of the opening ceremony, guests and visitors had the opportunity to experience firsthand the unique mix of craftsmanship and innovation that is behind the Marcolin brand, while enjoying the beat of a live DJ set. This was possible thanks to a “creative room” dedicated to prototype design and creation and to a new augmented reality project that, through the use of special visors, allowed guests to take a virtual tour of the Group’s manufacturing facility in Italy, go “behind the scenes,” and discover all the eyewear creation and manufacturing phases.

“This was possible thanks to a “creative room” dedicated to prototype design and creation”

A cocktail of excellent products

Customers, partners, and journalists who attended the opening ceremony of the new showroom in Madison Avenue also had a chance to enjoy an amazing food tasting during the cocktail party organized by celebrated chef Alessandro Borghese. Chef Borghese was not there by chance, but because he is also very much loved in the United States, where he lived (he was born in San Francisco) and where he is considered one of Italy’s most influential ambassadors of traditional cuisine.

Francesca Valan

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1

It’s proven that color preferences follow cycles: tomorrow we’ll get tired of any color we love today. How can we choose a pair of glasses “for life”?

«Since the Covid pandemic we’ve all become more aware, color sensitivity has become more widespread and our choice parameters have also changed greatly. When we speak about colors, no-trend is the real trend today: we are all – businesses and individuals alike – instinctively looking for iconic colors that are destined to stand the test of time. And that also embrace a multisensorial dimension, for instance a certain scent associated with a certain material and a certain color. In case of eyewear, this translates into a certain shape, a (glossy, natural or matte) material and a (more or less saturated) color that represent and express our personality. Our eyewear of choice can be black or colored, small or oversize. But it’s always better to have a way out».

2

Is a pair of glasses enough?

«No, you need at least two: a pair to wear in the long term, on which you can invest a bit more, and a pair that meets your need for change. Whether it’s for an evening out, a special occasion or a holiday. Because you’re bound to get tired of a red frame if you wear it every day, but if you learn to measure it – like a spice in a recipe – then it becomes a stylish reflection of your personality».

“when you speak about an accessory like eyewear, materials also matter greatly”
3

A frame can be made of different materials: does this affect your color choice?

«According to the rules of color harmony, you can find your most flattering hues based on your natural colors, such as the skin tone, hair shade and eye color. The interesting thing is that, if they keep an open mind, anyone is instinctively drawn to such hues. However, when you speak about an accessory like eyewear, materials also matter greatly: how many there are, how they reflect the light, if there are any jewel-like details and so on. So, in the end I have just one final tip for you: if you are a monochrome but multi-material lover, you can play with colored, mono-material frames. On the other hand, if you love bright colors you’ll look good with monochrome frames embellished with unique details and inserts».

ic! berlin & Bibhu Mohapatra

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Perfect mix

Modern yet traditional frames, for both men and women, with neutral tones and vibrant inserts: Bibhu Mohapatra is the world’s most loved and appreciated haute-couture designer (also by celebrities of the caliber of Michelle Obama, Jennifer Lopez and Hilary Swank) for his unique talent for combining the opposites in a fine mix of Indian design, painstaking attention to craftsmanship and western-style modernity. It is no surprise that, during the New York Fashion Week, Mohapatra decided to make his debut in the world of eyewear. Nor that he decided to do so together with innovative German brand ic! berlin, which recently joined the Marcolin portfolio.

“every frame from this capsule is the result of a cocktail of art and engineering”

Elective affinity

With its precious details and German minimalism, every frame from this capsule is the result of a cocktail of art and engineering: each and every piece speaks of the fleeting beauty of haute couture, framed by the concrete sobriety of ic! berlin, an eyewear brand that is globally recognized for its unique screwless hinge design and for the use of lightweight titanium.  But this connection was not born by chance: Bibhu Mohapatra’s father, a mechanical engineer in India, worked with several German companies throughout his career. And today, decades after, this new collaboration with Berlin is, for the 50-year-old designer, a symbolic bridge between his family’s past and his professional present.

“The capsule collection by Bibhu Mohapatra for ic! berlin is all about an Eastern feel (and a great variety of designs)”.

The collection

Large shield designs, small geometric shapes, colorful, ultra-lightweight and transparent eyewear as precious as lace, tinged with bright, enameled hues or subtle color gradients. The capsule collection by Bibhu Mohapatra for ic! berlin is all about an Eastern feel (and a great variety of designs). A clear aesthetic elegantly blends together with the minimalist lines and rigorous design that have always characterized the eyewear of the brand from Berlin. In other words, a collection that, in its small way, tells the (happy) story of an encounter.

8 March: Marcolin earns the Gender Equality Certification

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Concrete solutions

Work-from-home and tools for flexible working time management, introduction of a session dedicated to women’s leadership within the Leadership Academy, a pathway for future managers, support for the psychological aspect for all the employees with focus groups dedicated to new mothers, conclusion of agreements with daycare centers. These are only some of the concrete initiatives, the ones that women really need, allowing Marcolin to earn the gender equality certification. An important acknowledgment, issued by the certification bodies accredited with Accredia, achieved after a challenging journey lasting a few years in favour of new inclusive and corporate welfare policies. And conducted based on specific indicators related to six assessment areas that characterize an inclusive and gender-responsive organization: culture and strategy, governance, Human Resources processes, opportunities for the growth and inclusion of women in the company, equal pay for both genders, parenting support and work-life balance.

More women at the top

“Our journey starts from afar, where diversity, equity and inclusion are considered strategic levers for business development and the promotion of an equitable and gender-friendly culture” said Sabrina Paulon, Marcolin Group HR Director. Because today women need not only solutions that allow them to better reconcile life and work, children and professional commitments, but also real opportunities for space, visibility and career. The same as their male colleagues. A topic that has been particularly close to the heart of this Company for many years given that, according to October 2023 data, that 62% of Marcolin’s people are women, of whom 40% occupy managerial positions and 50% have executive roles.

“diversity, equity and inclusion are considered strategic levers for business development”

See you in 2025

This acknowledgment (valid for three years and subject to annual monitoring) should not be considered a point of arrival, nor should it slow down the path undertaken so far. For this reason, the certifying body, during its assessment, also considered Marcolin Group’s establishment of a wide and strategic plan covering the period from now to 2025. A structured plan, including training sessions on the topic, new supports for parenting and work-life balance together with initiatives to promote fairness in selection processes and career development. And which is just waiting to be carried forward with commitment to achieve an ambitious and important objective, especially in our country: achieving a full gender equality.

 

Antonio Jové

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1

A well-balanced portfolio, direct relationships with the sales network and special attention to the luxury segment: what is Marcolin’s main strength, the one that has determined the growth in recent years?

«I would say that we have 3 strengths which distinguish us from competitors. The first one is our people. We have built up a team in EMEA and strengthened it over time, which has allowed us to always be close to the customers. The second thing is the brand portfolio. We have a very well-balanced portfolio between luxury, diffusion, sun, optical, men, and women, that allows us to easily meet the client’s needs. And the third one is that in recent years we have been focusing on and expanding the luxury segment, where we really have an absolute leading brand and the Company is investing in new brands right now: ZEGNA, ic! berlin, and we will be launching very soon one of the most popular brands of the moment, Christian Louboutin».

2

You are leading very different geographical, economic, and cultural areas: what are the main differences between opticians in the markets, what strategies do they require?

«It is true that the EMEA region is wide, and we reach our clients in two different ways. One is through our subsidiaries, the other is export. In our branches we have evolved and transited from micro to macro areas. Today, we have 3 macro areas that speak the same language, the language that our clients need. These 3 areas are managed by 3 Heads of, and below these 3 Heads of, the key person, who is managing the market today, is the Sales Manager. And below that Sales Manager, we have the two languages we need to reach the client».

“We have two very clear and combined goals for EMEA, especially for this year”
3

We are at the beginning of 2024: can you tell us what Marcolin’s objectives are for the EMEA area? Is there a segment you are focusing on in particular?

«We have two very clear and combined goals for EMEA, especially for this year. The first is to make this new organization we have implemented in our branches work and allow it to take on a significant role within the market, and the second we are focusing on is related to export. Here we have four very clear projects that we are going to implement throughout 2024. It is true that luxury is very important within our Company. Luxury is growing. We have one of the most important, or maybe the most important, brand in the luxury industry and the Company will continue to invest in this segment. We have another strong reality, which is ZEGNA. There is no doubt we will also launch the brand ic! berlin on the market during 2024, and towards the end of the year we will launch Christian Louboutin».

Stefania Lazzaroni

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1

You’ve been the Altagamma General Manager for over 10 years now: what has changed since then?

«Altagamma has changed, and so has the market. Altagamma has changed because when I joined the Foundation, it used to have approximately 67 members, while today there are 118 members which become over 140 companies if the partners are added, so it’s a larger community. But our list of activities has also grown longer: today we carry out awareness-raising initiatives as well, like the “Adopt a school” project dedicated to manufacturing products. But the entire industry has changed too. I like to remember that 10 years ago the industries represented in Altagamma – fashion, design, hospitality, jewelry and automotive – did not view the digital world as a cornerstone nor sustainability as a buzzword. Today, these are two pillars of the business, and not only in our industry».

“Marcolin entry in Altagamma is the perfect example of the fact that excellent manufacturing and savoir-faire must be part of our ecosystem”
2

2024 opened up with the entry of Marcolin in Altagamma. What are the drivers of this new collaboration?

«The collaboration was born organically and spontaneously. Marcolin is an excellent Italian manufacturing company that was already working with many of our member brands, such as Tod’s, Zegna, Max Mara, Pucci, so in a way it was already part of our community: Altagamma tends to involve companies that are already intrinsically connected to our sector, so Marcolin had already earned its spot. Its entry is the perfect example of the fact that excellent manufacturing and savoir-faire must be part of our ecosystem».

3

Whispering, never shouting. It’s the manifesto of “quiet luxury” that is currently influencing many brands. Is this the trend for the next few years?

«The definition of luxury has always been a bit nomadic, it changes when customer values change and so the industry has to change along with them: cyclically, you go from quiet luxury to “screaming” luxury, depending on the seasons. Quiet luxury has been gaining popularity lately, and some brands interpret it in a very powerful way, but I would say that this alternation between explosive and sober luxury is in the nature of luxury itself. Perhaps, however, after the pandemic we all tend to be more attracted by sober, pragmatic and effective luxury: rather than a status symbol, it’s a style that expresses values that are consistent with our personality and with who we are».

Giuliano Calza

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From Italy to China and back, enjoying great international success. This is, in a nutshell, the story of GCDS (i.e. the acronym for “Giuliano Calza Design Studio”) founded by Giuliano and Giordano Calza in 2015. A fashion brand that, thanks to the design and skilful craftsmanship of its products, in less than ten years has conquered the heart of celebrities, influencers and large audience worldwide.

1

From a streetwear brand to a new luxury icon: how did you stay true to your free, ironic and unconventional language?

«GCDS largely represents who I am: I was born and raised in Italy, but I also had the opportunity to define my language around the world. I think there is a lot of fear of self-expression, but my world exists for those who can understand it and who want to use it as a tool for amusement».

“my world exists for those who can understand it and who want to use it as a tool for amusement”
2

Today GCDS is one of the coolest brands on the international fashion scene: how did you win the trust of a varied community of celeb, such as Dua Lipa, Beyoncé and Sofia Loren?

«I think celebrities are genuinely interested in my world, I’ve become friends with some of them, because we share the same references.  This pushed me to believe in my creativity and in the fact that a product often becomes the key to a world of shared images and emotions».

“A product often becomes the key to a world of shared images and emotions”
3

What’s the philosophy behind the new GCDS Eyewear collection?

«Eyewear is a must-have accessory for me, it’s one of the few accessories I always carry with me while travelling, in this order: a pair of black sunglasses, a coloured frame to wear on any occasion and a bold and playful design to add a twist to any plain look. This is my idea behind the GCDS eyewear collection by Marcolin».

“Eyewear is a must-have accessory for me”

ic! berlin: think with your own eyes

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28 years of history

You write it “ic! berlin” but you pronounce it the English way. It’s the innovative eyewear brand created in 1996 by eclectic Ralph Anderl (a designer, singer, photographer and musician) together with a couple of friends in a garage in Berlin. A cult brand in the 2000s (worn by celebrities of the caliber of Madonna, Brad Pitt or Dub Inc), it has grown exponentially ever since and today it has joined the Marcolin family. What’s its secret to success? Its clean-cut design, attention to detail and, most of all, temple material: screwless and weld-free ultra-lightweight spring steel obtained from a carbon-chromium-nickel alloy thanks to an innovative hinge system of which ic! berlin has the exclusivity. In other words, eyewear that is easy to disassemble and reassemble. Lightweight but at the same time very strong.

 

“What’s its secret to success? Its clean-cut design, attention to detail and, most of all, temple material”

Berlin spirit

Minimalist, elegant and Berlin understatement, ic! berlin eyewear today is exported all over the world (in addition to its headquarters in Berlin, the company has branches in Tokyo and New York City); therefore, products can no longer be manufactured in a small Berlin lab like in the early years. Hence the agreement with a company like Marcolin, which, true to the DNA of ic! berlin, translates the brand’s spirit into an attitude that enables people to express themselves and their style freely, without following trends.

The collections

It is precisely thanks to these strengths that, in addition to several international awards, ic! berlin earned the SILMO d’OR in 2008 and 2011. Today it showcases its collections including Classic, Custom Fit, Pure Elements, Silk and Silk Pure and Flexarbon (which uses aerospace technology) and some more designer capsules. Among them the brand also boasts a collaboration with Mercedes-Benz from 2020. All the frames are very much loved by free and creative spirits, eclectic and curious personalities, who know how to look at things from new perspectives. Just like the actor Daniel Brühl, brand ambassador announced for 2024, among the protagonists of the movie “All Quiet on the Western Front” which won 9 Oscar awards in 2023.

A new vision

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Customer focus

As customer expectations grow, so does customer focus. And customer and employee trust, loyalty and satisfaction become the new keywords. It’s the philosophy firmly embraced by Marcolin that, since 2021, has invested in a new Customer Experience Transformation program. This is the name of an ambitious process that introduces solutions that help learn more about customer needs: from the first time they get to know about Marcolin products to their path to purchase up to the support provided during the business relationship. A project that, after two years of hard work, reached its first milestone in 2023.

First results

«We started off with digital transformation, by introducing a CRM system aimed at tracing and improving all the customer interactions» explained Lorenza Biasin, who is Customer Experience Manager at Marcolin. «As regards customer touchpoints, for instance, we created a new e-commerce platform: it’s more than just a shopping site, it’s a gateway on services available 24/7 to meet the real needs of our customers. From the opportunity to chat with our Customer Service in case of an emergency to that of receiving information about their purchases in real time, such as the delivery route or time or processing status. We also provided our Customer Service with a technology that enables them to reply to customers faster and more comprehensively».

 

“we created a new e-commerce platform: it’s more than just a shopping site”

Directions

A key project that, however, is even more ambitious and challenging for Marcolin. «Since all the markets on which Marcolin operates were involved from day one, a variety of different needs were identified» continued Lorenza Biasin. «There are, for example, customers who prefer communicating with the company by email, others by way of agents and others by phone. In 2024 we will start measuring user response and we will further update the system to improve our partners’ experience». Taking country-specific elements into account and listening to customers, therefore, continue to be a priority, today and tomorrow.

Alessio Puleo

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1

To sum up the past year: what tools were implemented to support the growth of Marcolin’s brand portfolio globally?

«2023 was an amazing year: Marcolin continued the renovation path started in 2020, which allowed us to improve all the financial indicators. We signed a perpetual licensing agreement with TOM FORD Eyewear, finalized the acquisition of the German brand ic! berlin, entered a new partnership with MCM, and renewed the licensing agreement with Pucci, which is part of LVMH Group and a key brand for us. At this very moment, if I had to define our brand portfolio with two words, I would say: balanced and complementary. Balanced because our portfolio covers all the market clusters and customer needs; complementary because each brand has its own unique role and there is no risk of brands overlapping».

“Our portfolio covers all the market clusters and customer needs”.
2

In this “hot” period of renewals, how do you approach licenses?

«In the first few months of 2024, we renewed some strategic license agreements for the Group, such as the ones with GCDS, ZEGNA and MAX&Co., and announced the debut in the eyewear segment of an iconic luxury brand such as Christian Louboutin. This was made possible thanks to our unique approach, which goes well beyond the typical licensor-licensee relationship: we consider our licensed brands as strategic partners with whom we can build long-term projects based on value creation, where brand equity is the fundamental principle that guides our daily actions.  Our partners also appreciate Marcolin’s unique ability to transpose their brand’s DNA into collections. And, last but not least, our manufacturing know-how allows us to create objects of extremely high quality».

“Our partners also appreciate Marcolin’s unique ability to transpose their brand’s DNA into collections”.
3

What are the key targets for 2024? Should we expect any new entries or news?

«2024 will be an intense year in which we will strengthen the growth of our historic brands and finalize the launch of MCM for FW24 and of Christian Louboutin for SS25.”